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When assembling a list of London’s best eateries, one might expect familiar high-end names. However, tucked prominently among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. The accolade has left the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I am completely surprised,” states the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their small place securing such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the fare, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender quality.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning outside its own walls. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this culinary achievement.